263 Yale Ave N
Seattle, WA 98109
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Snow Technical Information
• What does the waterproof and breathability rating actually mean?
To simplify it, the higher the number for waterproofing or breathability, the better. 5,000mm of waterproofing is a bare minimum for outerwear that’s going to be used in a snowy or wet environment. 10,000mm to 20,000mm of waterproofing is great in most conditons of rain or snow. Gore-Tex outerwear rates around 30,000mm which is guaranteed to keep you dry.
If you are wearing highly waterproof outerwear, you’ll want to be sure that the grams of breathability are high. Most of the time, the breathability number will be close to the waterproofing number (example: 15,000mm waterproof/10,000g/b) Outerwear over 20,000 grams of breathability are suggested for outerwear over 20,000mm of waterproofing.
Critical taping refers to waterproof taping over the seams of outerwear where the garment is most exposed to moisture. In a jacket, critical taping usually refers to upper shoulder seams. In pants, critical taping generally refers to taping in the crotch as well as up the seam in the crack.
Fully taped is just that, all seams on the garment are waterproof taped behind the seams. This alleviates any spots or pin pricks that would potentially leak.
Feel free to wash your outerwear in the washing machine on cold or warm without other laundry. You can use a little bit of your normal laundry detergent or use a tech wash made for washing outerwear. This will basically clean out the pores of the fabric so that waterproofing can be re-applied. Tumble dry on warm or cool. We suggest a spray on DWR waterproofing rather than a wash-in waterproofing. Wash-in waterproofing will fill the pores on the inside of the jacket, making it less breathable.
It’s a tough call of which snowboard to pick. That’s why we’re here. If you are close to us geographically, you can come in and we can make it a painless and fun process. If you’re no where near us, here are some tips to make the choice a bit easier.
Ability Level: Only you know where your ability level lies. Generally speaking, flex has a lot to do with who a board is meant for skill-wise. Most companies grade their boards flex, usually on a number rating (example 1 to 10, 10 being the stiffest). If you’re just beginning or are very light, you won’t want too stiff of a board. If you are bigger person or are an advanced rider, you’ll probably prefer a bit stiffer of a board.
Shoe Size/Board Width: Snowboards all have a waist width which is the narrowest point in the center of the snowboard. You’ll want to get a board who’s width is appropriate to your boot size. If you’ve got a smaller foot, you will want a board that isn’t too wide. Too wide of a board will make the board turn slowly. If you have a larger boot size, you’ll want to consider a wide snowboard. If you have a gigantic foot on a narrow snowboard, you run the risk of your toes and heels dragging in the snow when you turn.
Here are some general guidelines:
Snowboard Length: A simple rule of thumb for the appropriate length of a snowboard is somewhere between the throat and eyebrows. If you are riding powder and backcountry, you’ll probably want to be on the longer side. If you are primarily park riding, most people will opt for a shorter board that’s easier to maneuver around. If you are a beginning snowboarder, we suggest staying on the shorter side to make turning easier.
Here are some general guidelines:
Riding style or preferred terrain: This one is in your hands. The cool thing about snowboards is that they all slide on snow. Unless you choose a board that’s specific to a certain terrain, most boards will do fine in most conditions. As far as conditions specific boards, some are better for park, some are better for powder, and some are better for icey conditions. It all depends upon what you want to ride. Most boards would be considered all-mountain but some boards. Powder boards and backcountry boards are for conditions exactly as their names imply. Splitboards are meant for back-country trekking into areas outside of chairlift access. The board splits in two, lengthwise, and you apply traction skins so you can get to the peak you want to descend in snowboard mode.
Camber Profile: Camber profile is personal and depends on what applications you intend to use. Here are some of the different camber profiles:
Graphics: In a perfect world, graphics shouldn’t matter. However, since you’re probably spending several hundred dollars on this purchase, you want to make sure you like looking at it. If it’s the perfect board for you and you don’t like the way it looks… there’s always stickers!
Closure system: Laces, Speed-Lace, or Boa… They all work. Speed-Lace and Boa are more convenient as far as ease and speed of lacing and they tend to never loosen. Laces take a little longer but they’re easy to replace if you cut them but they can loosen over a day of riding.
Flex: Choosing flex is personal to your riding style, size and weight. Freestyle riders tend to like a softer flexing upper to the boot while freeriders and backcountry enthusiasts tend to prefer stiffer boots. Heavier riders tend to prefer stiffer boots and lighter riders tend to prefer softer boots, but there is no absolute rule.
Fit: Fit is what’s going to make you happy or bumming at the end of the day. Besides just overall comfort, the two things to look for in fit are heel hold and the fit for length. Your toes should be touching the end of the boot and we suggest a slight bit of pressure, so long as your toes aren’t curling up. Almost all boots will pack out slightly, roughly ¼ to ½ half a size. If the length is good, now feel for heel lift. A proper fitting boot should feel secure around your heel and it shouldn’t be sloshing around.
As our final note on snowboard boots, please do not wear cotton socks in snowboard boots. Cotton socks do not wick moisture and will cause more harm (blisters) and coldness than a wicking sock made of polypropylene or wool. Become friends with a nice pair (or two) of snowboard socks.
It’s true, pretty much all snowboards have 2 straps and kind of look the same. Generally speaking, the more expensive the binding, the stiffer and more comfortable it will be. Some are made of metal but most are made out of reinforced plastic (nylon).
We carry 2 main types of bindings: Strap Bindings and Rear Entry Bindings
Strap Bindings: This is what 90%+ of the snowboarding world rides on. It’s a binding that consists of a baseplate with 2 straps that hold your feet into bindings.
Rear Entry Bindings: Bindings like K2 Cinch, Flow, or Gnu Fastec are rear entry bindings. The highback folds back to allow the boot to slide in and then the highback re-engages and locks. These bindings still have 2 straps and are a slightly more convenient entry compared to a strap binding.
Binding Sizing: Every company has a slightly different sizing scale when it comes to fitting bindings to a boot size. Please reference sizing chart for the company you are interested in.